Day 44 – Erie, PA, Rest Day 14 Jul 2014

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Miles 3217 to 3217, 0 miles, Beautiful weather, I wish we were riding today and then have the rest day near Niagara Falls.

St. Joseph Home for Children, Erie PA

I don’t want to sound weird, but Erie is eerie. We are in an old downtown hotel. At Route-Rap last night I asked if it was safe to walk around the city. We were warned don’t go out alone and never take our hands off our bikes outside lest it get stolen. What a stark contrast from the 43 days of goodness since we left San Francisco. Yes, there are very bright spots in this town such as St. Joseph’s Home for Children and the dock district. We were also told that Presque Island is fabulous and the Greek Festival is awesome. The concern is getting there, and what to do with your bike while enjoying it. The idiom ‘Never judge a book by its cover’ can work the other way too. Never judge a city by its innards.

Bus Station down by the city docks

After getting the more urgent telework done I decided to be brave and took public transportation to Sam’s Club for lunch. My buddy Lloyd and I had always reserved Monday for pizza and dawgs, and with that on my mind I was compelled to venture out. There sure was an assortment of folks on board and I imagined all the stories that were contained within the bus. For 30 minutes I overheard conversations that ranged from outrage to ‘just getting by’. Some folks seem to have natural smiles and others self-inflicted scowls. The happiest guy on the bus seemed to be the driver. When a Hispanic lady in a wheel chair joined the crowded adventure I was repositioned to ride next to a young lady named Angel. She was I-Phone occupied for ten minutes but eventually pulled the plugs from her ears. I asked her if she was going to work, and yes, a waitress at the mall. I asked her which was her favorite tattoo, and she showed me one that wasn’t normally visible, and then told her story of its emotional attachment from a difficult time and a friend that helped her through it. She wanted out of Erie, hoping to move to Norfolk and work for the Navy once her child was old enough for day care. She asked what brought me to Erie and I told her of my bike adventure, today being my rest day and now on my way to buy some essentials at the mall. All the conversations around us went silent as she asked more questions. Eventually she asked what I did for a living, and reluctantly I told her. She commented that she had secretly wondered why I was holding on so tightly to my laptop bag. Questions then came from everywhere, not just her. I was not expecting any of that, wishing to discover their goals and dreams, not explain mine. After she got off at her stop I could not help but think that God could shine that tarnished Angel into being one of His favorites. I hope my words encouraged her, and then felt a bit silly for thinking that. She already is one of His favorites.

There is so much goodness around me yet to be discovered. While shopping I saw children that listened to their parents (and some that didn’t), a saw a mother feeding her baby a bottle with such gentleness that it caught not just my attention but others too. I already mentioned the bus driver that treated his riders with dignity, respect, and a smile. When he missed a signal bell to stop, that rider got upset and said something ugly to him, but that passenger could not squeeze anything out of the driver but a sincere apology and a kind word in return.

Happy Times and Sam's Club

Sydney swam in the deep end of the pool today! Her dad Chris and her younger brother Dean can swim too (and they don’t use water wings at that pool). They are also expert Sam’s Club pizza eaters, and their giggling and joy around the table next to me was so irresistible that I was compelled to ask to join them. Chris is an educator specializing in sports, and when I mentioned my long bike riding adventure was when the pictures came out. Little Dean was so cute. They had just returned from a pilgrimage to Disney World, and he had the ears on his hat to prove it. Sydney’s also now rides a bike, and with her recent swimming achievement she earned the gem of the day honors.

Bottom Line: Good is all around, but sometimes you have to look for it. If you can’t see it, share it.

Day 43 – Youngstown, OH to Erie, PA via Great Lakes Seaway bike trail, 13 Jul 2014

Map and Pics:  Click Here for Map and Pics.

Miles 3120 to 3217, 97 miles (+4 bonus miles to see covered bridges), 1450 feet of climb (ha – it was 2395 ft), max speed 37 mph, avg speed 16 mph, heavy rain and strong wind, sometimes helpful.

You have to do selfies when you are so slow

New state: PA! Two events secured my last place finish today. First I broke a wheel. The mechanic said I broke the spoke on the roads earlier this week, but it popped today. The second event was that I went to church in Wayne, Ohio. I told the AbB staff don’t be looking for me until SAG Stop #2 (Richardson's Root Beer Stand), and they didn’t. They know my ways now. If something catches my eye, I’m going to investigate. And by the way, trains always catch my eye. Over the years they get to know types of riders. I’m not a ‘slow’, I’m a ‘stop’. They have no problem with that, but they do appreciate that I call in every once in a while to tell them what mile I am at. That is so they don’t have to send out a search party. I like it because they don’t hover over me. I’m on vacation.

Off the beaten path, Niles, OH

The promised rain came, and with a vengeance. Before the clouds opened I took a lot of pictures, but the one picture (left) more than the others brought me feelings of peace and goodness. I was unaware that the McKinley Presidential Library and birthplace were in Niles, OH. That and Big Bird; I got his picture too. What impressed me about Niles was the cobblestone streets that ventured away from the busy ones as if time stopped and it was late 1800’s. And yes, I had to go explore. And yes, the staff was not surprised when Dave disappeared once again from his expected place in line.

Inside the Country Church

A person could not be any wetter than I was when I squished my riding shoes through the front door of the country Congregational Church. The Sunday School teacher kept on teaching the lesson in the sanctuary but soon all eyes found my "Glow in the Dark" clothes (and skin tight pants that never had never ever never ever never been worn in that church before... I was tempted to tell them all that they all dressed funny.) I was invited in to get warm, dry off, and join in on the discussion. It was wonderful in spirit and dryness. The average age of the dozen in church was around 70, except for the teacher who was in his 20s, an intern preparing for the ministry. After class I received many invitations for dinner and dessert, but I had to decline. I got to talk to some kids later (they were in a downstairs Sunday School class) about my bike and what I was doing. I also got to talk to the pastor. I needed that. I miss Sundays more than any other day of the week.

The gem of the day could not be photographed. I happened upon an Amish Sunday Morning gathering at a home along the route. The adults were in the house while about twenty kids were in the yard playing tag. The girls were in their long dresses and bonnets, while the boys were in their “meetin’ clothes.” The game of tag was going on almost in slow motion. The kids dare not get their clothes dirty. A couple of the children gave me a greeting and returned their focus to the fun. It was almost surreal. Not a single kid was texting a message to another.

Bottom Line: This has been a hard week. Ohio should have been done in four days, not three. There are just too many good folks to meet to try to do it all in just three days.

Day 42 – Wooster, OH to Youngstown, OH via Noah’s Ark, 12 Jul 2014

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Miles 3034 to 3120, 86 miles (+2 more bonus), 3000 feet of climb (+776 more bonus), max speed 39 mph, avg speed 13 mph, all back roads, some very rough. A few significant hills.

If only I had been thinking...

Overall nice ride today. At Route-Rap last night Michelle said yesterday’s ride was a signature day, much like the first day. What she meant was that yesterday’s ride was the one that most people remember (and not because of its charms). It was the second half of a double century and the road got worse and worse and worse and worse. Today was the opposite; just a nice ride. I didn’t want today to stop (even if it was in the 90’s). It is hard to pick out my favorite picture of today. I really liked the yuccas in bloom, the town celebrating the 200th anniversary of the canal passing through town, the osprey nest (I originally thought it to be an eagle), the country roads that tunneled through canopies of trees, and the train tracks recaptured by nature. I do have a significant regret: the Rector at the Russian Eastern Orthodox church had invited me inside to see the sanctuary. All I could think was I had tar on my shoes, the clips would have scuffed the marble floors, and I stunk from 30 miles of riding through the hills. I declined, and kicked myself later - I could have always taken off my shoes. Oh – Our second SAG was at Noah Ark’s, an animal rescue mission.

None better than this one!

He was out at his mailbox inspecting it for damage. A tractor had come by and the implement it was towing had clipped the mail box post. The tractor lost. This was no ordinary mailbox and post. In his earlier days Dick was a machinist and this durable mailbox was his handiwork. He told me about some juveniles that 35 years ago had tried to dent it one evening driving down the road with a baseball bat. He still has the half a bat, and the kid probably still feels the sting of being on the business end of a twang that bit back. Then I asked about his kids. He and his bride had five boys and all of them now successful vocationally, all with great families, and all with a heritage of faith. He told me that his wife is now more homebound and that a local pastor visits once a week to talk and pray. For 89 years old this good old boy sure does get around. And yes, the post only looks like wood. Hit it with a bat and you might find your twang twinged too.

Happy Yard

It was just too pretty to pass by. Another magnificent garden spot in Ohio, and I pulled over in the grass to enjoy the colors and organization. When I started to take a picture, I found out I was not alone. Rhonda Monroe peeked around the corner of a playground and came over to introduce herself. I told her who I was and commented on their garden. She said much of it was her husband’s work, and soon Don, who worked 30+ years in a steel mill, was walking up towards us from his work on a new chicken coop. The picture does not do the gardens justice. Don and Rhonda have 12 grandkids that visit often, and the official reason is to feast on ‘dippy eggs’. Now with chicks growing up to be hens (one granddaughter is teaching them how to fly) dippy eggs may be happening more often! One of their passions is gospel singing and their church has events weekly during the summer. Their stories of local quartettes and bands reminded me of similar events and good eating at Norm’s Barn down in Limestone County. What a delight! MawMaw and PawPaw were the diamonds of the day.

Bottom Line: The special folks I met today remind me how wonderful my grandparents were to me.

Day 41 – Marysville, OH to Wooster, OH via the Historic Lincoln Byway, 11 Jul 2014

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Miles 2931 to 3034, 103 miles (+3 more bonus), 3800 feet of climb (+488 more bonus), max speed 39 mph, avg speed 14 mph, all back roads, some very rough, at least 20 hills with greater than 12% grade

Judy the Master Gardener

The problem with long rides is that there are too many gems to write about! Let me first tell you about Judy the master gardener. Her flowers gardens along Warrensburg Road were so stunning in color and composition that it demanded I stop. I had not seen anything of such beauty anywhere west of here. We had a wonderful conversation, and then I asked about a possible local custom that I knew of from when I was a young man, the vertical welcome mat. I remembered that if there was a broom across the back door it meant that “I’m not able to come to the door, but come on in anyway and make yourself some coffee.” I described such a house to Judy, complete with a back door broom, and she immediately named the 95 year old lady who lived there. I was doubly blessed by my stop there. She said she would remember my blessing on her: “May all your bouquets be beautiful.”

Crib filled with Corn

The ride today was very tough. Instead of ‘rollers’, Ohio has killer ‘bathtubs’. Rollers have their steepest declines and assents closest to the bridge at the bottom of the valley. Ohio’s version of rollers is steep at the top, shallow on the way down, a long flat valley, shallow starting up the other side, and almost vertical brinks to get back to the top. These didn’t start until around mile 70, and then they wouldn’t stop. Okay – I admit it. I was the last one in by almost an hour. On two of these double-ugly ascents I actually had to stop, wait until my heart was back in my chest, and then mashed the pedals to the top. Enough complaining. On the good side – there were an abundance of churches, farms, lakes, dams, rivers, animals… just a lot of neat stuff. One curious thing along the Lincoln Byway was an original horse watering station by the “L” milestone that identified the Lincoln Road. The spring was still providing water outside the downtown Mifflin church. One other thing I particularly enjoyed was an old wooden corn crib that was in many ways similar to the one I played in on my Uncle John’s farm when I was a teenager. What memories.

Family, Friends, Fun, and Faith

The most unexpected things happen to me. I found a big old maple tree on the side of the road as I was approaching exhaustion (and another very steep hill) around mile 94 today. I was standing still over my bike and in a bit of a daze when I heard a child’s voice ask, “What is your name?” I didn’t notice a fenced yard filled with a fun playground area for kids. A grandma soon came near, her name being Alice, along with two of her grown daughters. Eventually I ‘woke up’ and we started a most pleasant conversation that lasted almost a half hour. I couldn’t help but notice the wood carving tacked to the porch that said “Family, Friends, and Fun”. It was very obvious that they were fulfilling their motto. Actually, a fourth “F” could be added: Faith. They were a church going family and attended services in Wooster. I eventually left the shade of the maple refreshed in body and spirit – and caused the AbB staff to start to wonder if I had fallen into a ditch somewhere. Within moments of leaving my time with them the AbB search party found me. I was hot, tired, still had water, and certainly was not going to accept a ride to the hotel. The goal is to ride every inch of road between the Pacific and Atlantic.

Bottom Line: Tough day. Maybe the toughest so far, but filled with gems.

Day 40 – Richmond, IN to Marysville, OH via the Ohio Cardinal Trail , 10 Jul 2014

Map and Pics:  Click Here for Map and Pics.

Miles 2826 to 2931, 105 miles (and six bonus miles for detours and dumb turns), 2010 feet of climb, max speed 30 mph, avg speed 15 mph, great weather, 80% good roads, 50% 10-12 mph head wind, 50% crosswind.

Leaving Indiana into Ohio

Nobody slept well last night for a variety of reasons that AbB is now fully aware of, causing the day to start on a grumpy note. We crossed into Ohio about five minutes into the ride north of Richmond on an old country road. We were told that we will be finding a new mindset in drivers in Ohio and points east (one hand on the steering wheel, one on the horn, and one hand texting an outrage to somebody). Within an hour my experience was the opposite. When we found a bridge out on our route, we doubled back to the town New Paris, OH and pulled into the fire station to ask for directions. The two ladies manning the station went out of their way to tell us how to detour around it. (I do have to chuckle that the only smokers we have seen on the ride were firemen.) Not an hour later I had pulled off the road to take a picture of a small covered bridge (but couldn’t upload due to no cell coverage) and a man pulled up behind me in an SUV and asked if I was okay and if there was anything he could do to help. I asked him about the area and he told me about the recent interest in an Indian village found just down the road beyond the covered bridge. I wished my youngest daughter was here to explore that!

Tire Swing calling my name

One thing I have noticed since entering Ohio was that the rivers have much less silt. In fact, some of the rivers today were clear and shallow enough to see the bottom. On the way to the first SAG we crossed Greenville Creek. There was a small dam that created a swimming hole, and over the swimming hole was a tire swing. If I had more time I might have ventured a few swings and splashes. The second spot on the river was the Greenville Falls near Covington. One of the benefits of being last is the freedom to pull off the side of the road and take pictures. Not just take pictures, but to try to compose a picture that will help me generate stories later. One interesting item was a silo made completely of decorative concrete blocks. My favorite was the round barn near Saint Paris. Another ‘delay of ride’ event was at the second SAG stop. A pastor had opened his church for us and in the basement fellowship hall was a piano. It had been over a month since I had played, and this one was old enough to have ivory keys. It was somewhat weird playing the piano with no feelings in my fingers. (That happens from riding long distances.)

A place of rest

Without doubt the gem of the day was a man named JL. He has been a long-time friend of AbB and had sent up his personal SAG station for us at the high point of today’s ride. He had chilled sports drinks, an extra chair, and time to talk. I could not resist the invite to sit-a-spell and chat. He told me of his ride on this same route years ago. Eventually we talked bikes and that is when the magazine came out. Due to injuries, he had to give up his road bike and had recently purchased a recumbent tricycle. He loves it, calling it a lawn chair with wheels. There have been many improvements in those bikes and it looks like he has gotten himself a good one. I asked him several questions, to include how safe was it riding in traffic. He surprised me by saying he gets more respect with his trike than with his road bike. I could have stayed much later but I had to be at the hotel before Route-Rap to explain tomorrow's ride. JL came to dinner tonight but was covered up with all the other bikers who got there first. There are times when being last means you miss out on benefits.

Bottom Line: Tough day, harbinger of more to come. I really need a good night’s sleep tonight.

Day 39 – Indianapolis, IN to Richmond, IN via the historic National Road (US40) , 09 Jul 2014

Map and Pics:  Click Here for Map and Pics.

Miles 2751 to 2826, 75 miles, 1050 feet of climb, max speed 31 mph, avg speed 16 mph, great weather, good roads.

US 40 Crossing Indiana

Today was our last ‘easy day’ and Al and I enjoyed leisurely racing into Richmond. Not only were the roads in great shape, fairly level, litter free, but we also had a tail wind. Once we broke free of the urban areas of Indianapolis we were able to keep about at 20-22 mph pace for almost 50 miles. Several times Al reminded me to slow down noting that tomorrow and the day after are over 100 miles each. Each town seemed to have a reason to celebrate being on the Historic National Highway, and antique stores were everywhere. Our riding pace was nothing compared to a Dutch friends. This afternoon the Netherlands was scheduled to play Argentina in the semifinals of the soccer World Cup. We delayed dinner to accommodate the end of the match, but sadly our Dutch friends will not have a team in the finals liked we had all hoped. I don’t pretend to understand soccer, but I do know that when in doubt cheer for the ones in orange uniforms.

The interesting moment today was at the Indy hotel. Most of the rooms there (and other hotels in town) were filled with international delegates to the annual meeting of the Jehovah’s Witnesses. This morning I was able to sit down and talk to six or seven ‘bus captains’ that were waiting for their cargo of witnesses to finish breakfast. These bus captains were all from the same town north of Indy and were acting as convention hosts. Fortunately we never got around to talking about anything other than current adventures, theirs the delight of people from all over the world. The most interesting guy I talked to today was the grandson of Emil Schram, the President of the New York Stock Exchange during World War II. Tom, the son of an Indiana farmer north of Richmond, had fascinating stories from his family’s history. They reminded me how important networking is in politics. I should have asked more questions about him, and not his grandfather. His grandfather was later the head of the USO, which puts the guy in a good light to anybody who has ever worn the uniform. Those moments were great, but the guy I liked the best today was the cigar chewing volunteer fire department chief in the small town of Dunreith. He had opened the fire station to us as a SAG stop. Behind the firestation was an old Ford tractor that attracted the farmer vocation rooted deep in the persona of some of Dutch riders.

Dutch Speaking Bentley Driver



The gem of the day was at a gas station in Centerville (center of what, I don’t know; certainly not Indiana). A guy pulls up in an vintage Bentley, complete with steering wheel on the right and the European license plates. I asked him if I could take his picture (right) and he answered in Dutch. Well… Game On! Our Dutch riders were there and Hans took some time to talk to him. I didn’t know what was said, but I sure did enjoy it. It reminded me of home where all sorts of languages are spoken, and all of them swirling around my ears too fast for me to understand.

Earlier today some of our riders (all Type A personalities) challenged each other to a basketball game of 21 at the same gym where the movie “Hoosiers” was filmed in Knightstown. Bragging rights were secured, and then the ride was continued. I have yet to discover my first Type B personality on this tour. The only sizes found here are A, AA, AAA, and ‘Oh my God’.

Bottom Line: It was fun getting to know our four new riders. I wish they were in as good of shape as me. No, they are real riders and not a tourist among them. I remain the 2014 Challenge’s finalist.

Day 38 – Indianapolis, IN Rest Day, 08 Jul 2014

Map and Pics:  Click Here for Map and Pics.

Miles 2751 to 2751, 0 miles, Severe storms early in the morning while we all were sleeping

Young and Faith in downtown Indy



The rain had just stopped when I walked over to the Hampton Inn to have breakfast with my wife and daughter Faith. We had an arranged a time to talk to my other daughter Yoonhee, currently in Korea, before she went to bed on the other side of the world. Both Faith and I were impressed how fluent she has become in Korean, and Faith was right, it sounded like she spoke Korean with a Spanish accent. Young and I could not be more proud of that girl. She collects new languages like I collect flat tires.

Today was a rest day except for having to work. Faith, who is our family’s best shopper, seems to possess an internal GPS for finding good stuff at value prices. She did her homework and knew where all the unexplored stores and factory outlets were at. She had several successful mall-therapy sessions today before her and her mom headed home today around 2 pm. Young prefers to drive only in the daylight, and Faith was tired from not sleeping well last night. That didn't stop us from taking several walks around the city. Indianapolis could possibly be the nicest small city in America. Very clean, very prosperous, and a wonderful mix between modern and historic. If they only could attract a great NFL franchise their place in prominence would be secured. (Do you think the Baltimore Ravens might want to come to Indy? Inside joke – Indy stole the Colts from Baltimore several years ago, and Baltimore fans have not forgotten.)

Mark our Mechanic

Our days off really aren’t, and I wasn’t the only one who had to things to do. Out staff welcomed three new riders to join us for the next phase of the ride. Mark, our mechanic, was outside (he only works in the shade) transforming boxes filled with parts into road worthy bicycles. The picture I got of him today is quite unfair. In person Mark looks like the youngest guy on the trip and is certainly one of the best all-around cyclists. He is from Colorado and has years of mountain biking experience (and the endurance for it). He beat the Flying Dutchmen over 11,000 foot Monarch Pass doing the ascent to the summit in 80 minutes as compared to what took me over three hours. Instead of posting the picture I took of him today, I’m attaching a better picture of him from earlier in the tour.

Bottom Line: Indy is a great place to visit, but after two days in any city and I am ready to move on. I am already missing my family.